Officially Ho Chi Minh City but still commonly referred to as Saigon; and a bigger, brasher, more hectic rival to Hanoi for recognition as the most prominent Vietnamese city - a variation of Sydney-Melbourne rivalry.
Lots of high rise, even more insane traffic with a higher ratio of four-wheeled vehicles although the motor-scooter still rules, more hectic bustle and far more people. Although Saigon has its incense-swathed temples, old-style markets, Vietnamese footpath retail and rough edges its embrace of modernity has surrendered the "genuine" tag to Hanoi.
The Vietnam ground war was fought in the south, Hanoi was bombed from the air so Saigon has the emblematic sites of the War Remnants Museum (once titled the Museum of American War Crimes), the Reunification Palace and the Caravelle Hotel where the foreign press and military gathered at the roof-top bar to swap stories over their alcholic indulgences.
Central Saigon is explorable on foot from the central hotels provided the oppressive heat and humidity don't do you in. Staggering back from the central markets with my withered loins awash with sweat i was asked by an old geezer with a scooter whether i'd like a lift. You bewdy - how much? Upon demounting at the hotel i asked him to come by the next morning and pick me up for a personal tour of the city. Threading through the crazy traffic you need to have faith in your pilot - after a few blocks the desire to abandon ship left me and it turned out to be an ideal way to zoom around well-known and more obscure sights. The photos here are of Saigon's rough edges taken on that scooter ride.